Climb Carefully

Geologists and conservationists will tell crag-hoppers that any restrictions and limited access to some of the busiest climbing sites in the country are there for good reason. The close working relationship between English Nature conservation officers and British Mountaineering Council (BMC) access officers ensures that sensitive Sites of Special Scientific Interest in areas such as the Yorkshire Dales, Peak District and the Southern Sandstone areas of Kent remain open to climbers.

Green climbing guides published by the BMC provide guidelines for climbers on how to avoid disturbing coastal cliff-nesting birds and birds of prey like peregrine falcons that nest in quarries, as well as providing information on rare orchids and wild plants that grow in crevices and on cliff tops. The popular BMC green climbing guide to the Yorkshire Dales has now been followed by one for the Lake District. These guides give up-to-date information on access and restrictions designed to protect nesting birds and plants.

All wild plants are protected under the Wildlife and Countryside Act and responsible climbers avoid disturbing them. Where there are seasonal restrictions because of nesting birds these are reviewed if the birds have not nested in any particular year and any ban may be lifted earlier than usual. Where there are birds nesting, and there is an agreed restriction, then climbers should be prepared to change plans according to the agreement. It may be that only some parts of the crag are restricted, so other routes can be climbed. If this is the case it will be indicated on signs.

Additionally, the BMC publish an Access and Conservation leaflet that details all seasonal restrictions and the information is also available on their website in the Regional Access Database (RAD).

English Nature highlights the busy Southern Sandstone area in Kent as an example where conservation and climbing organisations are working together to keep a popular site open. To prevent damage to the vulnerable soft sandstone from bolting, rope abrasion and wear and tear from boots on the delicate porous rock surface the BMC has published the Southern Sandstone Code of Practice. It is available on the BMC website.

Anna Wetherell, senior geologist for English Nature - the Government's geological watchdogs - explains, “We support the conservation work carried out by the BMC and there are lots of good examples where their members have made a great contribution to the conservation of the site. Rusthall Common SSSI near Tunbridge Wells is a good case in point. Climbers have been really good about using the specially designated area.”

Climbers too understand the importance of these issues as evidence by these words from their Deputy Chief Executive Officer Nick Colton. “It is important that all responsible bodies work together to achieve the best for the environment, wildlife, and the human population. Our Southern Sandstone Code of Practice seeks to achieve the right balance and we think that it does.”

The BMC Southern Sandstone Code of Practice suggests that climbers:

• Make sure the karabiner hangs over the edge of the crag.

• Make sure moving or stretching ropes do not come into contact with the rock.

• Always walk off when you have finished a climb, do not lower off.

• Do not abseil.

• Do not deface the rock with graffiti or by chipping new holds or enlarging existing holds.

• Always wear soft-soled footwear.

• Top-roping and soloing are the only acceptable methods to climb on Southern Sandstone - do not use pitons, chocks or camming devices.

Many climbing sites are home to rare and vulnerable wildlife, from cliff-nesting birds to beautiful native orchids. Some climbs are closed during the nesting season and climbers are advised to avoid uprooting small plants nestling in footholds and crevices if possible.

More information can be found at: www.english-nature.org.uk

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