Growing plants from seeds
10th December 2000
Growing plants from seeds is
a very self satisfying undertaking. Each different type of seed has different
requirements, so it will be impossible to cover everything here, but the basics
are the same. For individual requirements check the seed package.
Getting ready
Start your seed growing
process by assembling all the materials you will need in your work area. You
will need containers with provisions for drainage. This may be CLEAN
plastic pots, trays, or peat trays. For the planting medium, I prefer to use a 'soilless'
peat planting mix because of its sterility and ease. This can be purchased at
any good nursery supply. If you are growing plants which require a constant
temperature for germination, you might consider purchasing a waterproof soil
heating cable or mat. Follow the manufacturers directions. If you are
growing more than one kind of seeds it is a very good idea to use waterproof
labels and keep a log book. Fill your pots or flats to within 1/4 inch of the
rim. Moisten the soil by placing it in a pan of room temperature water until it
is thoroughly wet. It is adviseabe to then redrench the mix with solution of
Benomyl fungicide (1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS!!)
to prevent 'damping off' disease. Allow the excess water to drain from the
pots/flats, tamp them lightly to pack the medium and you are ready for sowing.
Sowing
It is important now that you
make sure that the seeds you plan to sow need any special treatment before
sowing. some may need soaking or a few hours (or days) in the freezer, while you
might have to scarify (nicking the seed hull) other varieties. The seed packet
will provide this information as well as other required information. It is a
good idea to do your sowing in stages so that in the event of disaster you have
a second chance. Depending on the size of the seed you may have
to create a seed 'trench' or punch a row of small holes with a dibble stick. The
rows should be at least an inch apart. The planting depth is critical but is
usually one or two times the diameter of the seed. Very fine seeds should not be
covered at all, nor seeds that require light for germination. Some seeds come in
a petteted form because of their size. These should not be covered at all, but
merely pressed into the surface of the mix. Carefully
distribute your seeds onto the medium or into the small holes, using care to be
sure that they are not crowded. This will ensure room for growth as well as good
light and air circulation to the seedlings as they develop. It will also make it
easier to transplant the new plants when the time has come. Now you should
create a miniature greenhouse environment for the pots or flats. This can be
done by placing the flat inside a sealed plastic bag (using small stakes to hold
the plastic from actually resting on the soil mix), placing a sheet of glass
over it, or actually building a mini house with a coat hanger frame and poly
film (an old aquariun works very well). Doing this will almost eliminate the
ncessity of watering the bed again before the seeds germinate (be sure to keep
an eye on it though, DON'T let it completely dry out). Place your flat in
an area where it will get good light but not direct sun, and stay as close to
the desired temperature as possible. Germination can take anywhere from a few
days to a couple of months, depending on what you are growing, so patience will
have to be on of your virtues. Once the seeds have poked their little heads up,
remove the greenhousing and move the flat gradually into brighter light
or sun. Your seedlings will be quite tender and fragile at this time, and a
radical change can cause disaster.
Growing
At this stage, the seedlings
have underdeveloped root systems, so watering is critical (check daily). The
potting medium must remain moist, but never wet or soggy, because this will
prevent oxygen to the roots and drown the new plants. Bottom watering is
best at this point because spraying can dislodge the plants and water on the
leaves may lead to fungus attack. Temperatures should be kept at about 70-75
degrees. Once the first true leaves (the second set to
emerge) develop, you can begin to feed your plants. Up until this time the
seedlings have been being nourished from the seed itself. Fertilizing should be
still done from the bottom at this point, using a very dilute 1/4 strength mix
of soluble all purpose plant food once a week. When the plants have reached
about 3 inches you can begin to water and feed the plants from above. When the
plants have deveoped 4 true leaves, it it time to thin and transplant
them into pots. Seedlings growing in a tray should be thinned to one inch or
more apart, where they may remain until they are ready to be planted in their
permanent home. Water both the plants and the new potting flats or pots well
prior to thinning or transplanting. Use the handle of a spoon as your shovel to
remove the seedlings from the pot or flat, and very gently separate them, being
careful to do as little damage to the roots as possible. Move the plant to the
new pot, gently dropping the roots into a pencil size hole which you have ready.
(Slightly deeper that the level it was previously growing at). Gently press the
medium around the roots. VERY IMPORTANT!!!
Always handle a seedling by the leaves and NEVER by the stem. Even slight
pressure can permanently damage the stem, whereas the plant will grow another
leaf if it is damaged. It is normal for a certain amount of wilting to occur
after transplanting, due to some root damage and general plant shock. The plants
should recover quickly. keep the plants in good light for several days but not
full sun. Gradually increase the light intensity. If the plants begin to get
tall and spindly, they are not getting enough light and should be moved to a
brighter spot. water when necessary to prevent wilting. The medium should be
kept moist but never wet or soggy. Feeding can be done weekly at 1/2 recommended
strength.
Ready for the garden?
The final step is hardening
off or acclimatizing the plants to the outdoor world. During this process make
certain that the plants are kept well watered. Move your trays or pots of plants
outdoors to a shaded, sheltered area. When the temperature drops at night, bring
them back indoors. After doing this for 2-3 days put them into an area where
they will receive a half day of sun (again, bring them in at night if it is
expected to get cold), and 2-3 days later let them have full sun (if they are
sun lover plants). After this hardening period they are ready to plant into
their permanent position in the garden. If SLUGS
are a problem in your area, use caution because a slug with an attitude can
virtually eliminate all of your work in a matter of hours.
Violas
Violas may be directly sown
into the garden at anytime from spring through fall. If they are started indoors
they need darkness
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