Insects, bugs and pests
- Always use clean pots and planters when repotting
- Always use sterile potting soil. Using garden soil can have disastrous effects.
- Isolate any new plants for a month or so, and check them frequently for signs of insects or disease. This also applies to any of your plants that may have been outside for the summer.
- Promptly remove dead flowers or leaves.
- Give your plant a bath now and then with a soft cloth and a little soapy lukewarm water.
- Examine your plants now and then, don't wait for them to start looking sad. Use a magnifying glass to look for mites
- Proper feeding, care and fresh air make a healthy plant which is more resistant to insect problems.
Aphids are common on house plant insects but fortunately, are easily controlled. Aphids suck sap from the plant and can cause new growth to be stunted and distorted. Aphids may be just about any color and are found on new growth and the undersides of the leaves, usually clustered together in a group. Heavy infestations cover the plants with a sticky honeydew. If you can handle living with Lady bugs in the house, they will take care of any aphid problem for you. Aphids can also be controlled with malathion, diazinon, and systemic insecticides.
Spider mites are almost impossible to see with the naked eye. They are
extremely small and a magnifying glass is usually needed to see them. They
usually attack new leaves and buds. Plants infested with mites lose their green
color and appear bronzed or washed out. In severe cases, the mites will form a
fine webbing covering the underside of leaves. Once a plant is infested with
mites, control will be difficult, if not impossible. Isolate your plant
immediately, and dip it or spray it weekly with insecticidal soap. Systemic
insecticides are sometimes effective if used soon enough.
Valerie wrote:
PLEASE TELL ME WHAT I CAN DO ABOUT SPIDER MITE INFESTATION!
I always had an organic garden, and I tried getting rid of these nasty pests with organic
spray but it didn't work. This year it was massive. Please help!
Hi Valerie,
Aside from using chemical sprays which specify that they will control spider
mites, the only thing I could suggest would be water....
I would try an organic insecticidal soap again, and the next day begin a process
of spraying each plant, each day with as strong of a stream of water as you think
your plants will withstand, making certain to spray the bottoms of the leaves.
Mites can reproduce each 3-7 days, so it is critical that you spray on a daily basis
until the problem is under control. Dry air encourages spider mites to breed so
anything you can do to increase the surrounding humidity will help you in your 'mite
fight'. Keep in mind that spider mites are NOT insects, so insecticides may not do
any good at all, so be sure that the product you use is listed as being effective
against mites, and follow the directions on the label.
The adult whitefly is a small 'white' fly. Their control is made more difficult by the fact that they will leave the plant as soon as you try to spray them. The immature stage of white fly is scale-like and doesn't move, so it is in this stage that you must defeat them by weekly spraying or dipping with insecticidal soap. Malathion and diazinon sprays are effective.
Scale insects often build up to large numbers because they go undetected. These insects are oval, about 3mm in length and look like small brown limpets.Their shell protects them from pesticides which makes their control more difficult. Scales are usually found on stems and the undersides of leaves but can be on top of the leaves. Small infestations can be removed by touching each insect with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Scales suck your plants juices, stunting the plants growth and they secrete a sticky honeydew which attracts ants and other pests. If it becomes necessary, spray or dip using malathion as directed.
Soil insects are noticed when brought to the surface during watering. Adults and larvae of several insects may fly or crawl around on the soil surface. In most cases they do no real harm to the plant. Large populations can cause wilting and poor plant growth due to minor root pruning. A soil drenching with insecticidal soap will usually solve the problem. Systemic insecticides are usually effective.
The damage done by ants is usually indirect and actually caused by the aphids, mealybugs or other insects which they 'farm' for the honeydew. They can however cause damage to the root system of the plant as they burrow to build their nest. A soil drenching with insecticidal soap will usually solve the problem. Systemic insecticides are usually effective as are malathion and diazinon.
Thrips
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