America's Court Jeweller
An exhibition of jewellery by Seaman Schepps, jeweller to US presidents, British royals, Hollywood stars and other celebrities.
The simpler fashions of the 1930s and 1940s, when the range of available fabrics was limited and a dress or suit had to be both well designed and wearable for several seasons without looking out of date, meant that accessories including jewellery became essential to change the 'look'. Schepps' colourful and unpredictable pieces were ideal. Prime examples from this period are the yellow and white gold bracelets set with cabochon, carved and faceted garnets, emeralds, sapphires, rubies and diamonds in the 'barbaric' style. Oversized pieces like these were in vogue at the time and epitomise Schepps' bold and vivid style. Wha was new about these bracelets, which are markedly different from the work produced by any other American jeweller, was the use of seemingly randomly placed gemstones creating a collage of colour and the mixing of cabochon, engraved and faceted stones.
His multi-coloured 'Rio' bracelets introduced in the 1940s also feature large, baroque semi-precious stones such as tourmalines and aquamarines interspersed with precious stones and diamonds. They were bought by clients such as the New York contemporary art dealer Holly Solomon and Phyllis McGuire of the McGuire Sisters. One of the most popular of Schepps' creations in the 1940s was the link bracelet which he made his own by alternating links of gold and a coloured gemstone such as coral, aventurine, rock crystal, lapis or even rare woods.
Jewellery was often designed for individual clients. One of his most loyal customers was Marguerite Wenner-Gren, the opera diva and wife of the Swedish steel magnate and industrialist Axel Wenner-Gren who later started the Electrolux Corporation and became one of the wealthiest men in the world in the 1930s. Among the pieces made for her in the exhibition is a bamboo section bracelet composed of pink tourmalines, aquamarines, emeralds and amethysts which bears a remarkable resemblance to candy. The elaborate central section of tumbled and carved stones is set with diamonds with a carved amethyst Asian figure at the centre. Using an innovative technique for securing the stones, many of them are wrapped in gold wires giving the effect of a beautifully wrapped present. The original drawing for this bracelet will also be shown.
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